Sassy Stryker's travel writing is featured in QXmagazine

Back in 1986 I lost my heart in San Francisco; well not exactly I ended up there for two days at the end of a massive Greyhound holiday. Innocent, broke and only nineteen I wandered through the Castro district. At that age I hadn't even come out so clones with chequered shirts on masse went unnoticed along with its gay history. All I remember is stealing a Hershey's bar from an all night convenience store only realising afterwards that the whole place was loaded with security cameras. I remember Telegraph Hill, Twin peaks and tram cars trundling about, but unlike Mouse from Tales of the City I never stayed to let the dream unfold - I just vowed that one day I would return to this beautiful city.

San Francisco

Fourteen years later, which is a lifetime for a gay man, I go back with cameras, credit cards, cellulite of course and flying Virgin which reinforces my rebellious streak and is the only airline that serves choc ices. Three in-flight meals, 5 Valium and eleven hours collective cabin farts (do you know that the average man or woman farts 50 times a day!) doesn't exactly make anybody look their best, but with my complimentary lemon fresh face cloth I set about revitalising my leathery flesh.

San Francisco

After the usual arguments with customs about Sassy's wig crates and the optional strip search I put my clothes back on. I've started taking my mountain bike with me whenever I travel; it's easy to pack, with a couple of spanner twists on the shaft the wheel nipples fall right off. I took a $35 taxi to my guest house, a brightly coloured Victorian town house right in the heart of the Castro. I had found my accommodation advertised on the Internet, 24 Henry Street. The price was $74 a night which includes breakfast and the guesthouse had a very homely feel.

San Francisco

Two o,clock in the morning and I am awakened by the wall beside my headboard shaking violently. At first I thought it was the couple in the next room having sex then all the car alarms start going off and it dawned on me that I was experiencing my first earthquake. It's a bit like the first time you have sex it scares the hell out of you as you don't know what's happening and it's all over before it's begun.

San Francisco

On my first day in San Francisco I cycled down Market Street to Pier 39. The city is all on a block grid system so it is ridiculously simple to work out how to get somewhere. I took a ferry across to Angel Island where all the soldier's barracks used to be. The Island makes for a good day out with its five-mile circumference being enjoyable either on cycle or foot with breathtaking views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Every visitor to San Francisco makes the pilgrimage to Alcatraz; morbid fascination draws you to explore this ugly fortress. I opted for the evening tour leaving pier 39 at 7pm. A short ferry ride across the water brought us into dock at Alcatraz and as I looked up the hill at this eerie place the setting sun reflected on its barred windows. Prison guards herded us into groups and a guided tour of the island commenced, climbing higher and ever closer to the mouth of this scary tomb. Once inside everyone was issued with a Walkman and left to wander around the place on their own and by this time it was totally dark outside. The tour takes about an hour and lets you sit in a cell and lock yourself in solitary. I chose to turn my tape off and sneak up some stairs to a forbidden level. I walked along a dark corridor and at the end was a broken window, which the breeze was blowing through. I looked out across the water as the silver moonlight's path was cut by the passing shadow of a ship. I thought of the hundreds of men imprisoned here over the years with their torment only made worse by the constant howling of the wind. This place was full of bad spirits and I must be honest I was first in the queue to get back on the ferry.

San Francisco

A great way to get a good feel for the Castro is to take the official tour with Trevor George. Trevor is a very friendly and witty lesbian making the four hour walk fun packed and very informative we even bumped into Amsted Maupin. The tour costs $40 with lunch thrown in and I would highly recommend it. Everybody is laid back in the Castro with gay men walking hand in hand - it really is a unique place. Rococo chocolate shop is run and owned by Jeffery, a very interesting character who looks like a cross between Santa Claus and Oliver Reed. It turns out that Jeffery used to be a top drag act and did the original Pricilla tour of the Australian outback in the late seventies. Inside his shop of chocolates, pink lace and movie memorabilia you'll find a glass case with a pair of Judy Garlands original Ruby slippers. If you pop in tell him that Sassy sends her love. A little further down the street the Castro Theatre is well worth a visit; inside plush seating lavish décor and at the beginning of each film a 50 year old Wurlitzer rises out of the floor and plays `I Lost my Heart in San Francisco' - camp or what. Café de Piaf on Market Street has a fabulous Stand up Comedy night on Mondays. I was lucky enough to see Scott Capuro - a very funnyman

San Francisco

There's a club called Blow Buddies which you have to join as a member but it only costs 9$. I have never seen anything like it before, it's a rabbit warren of darkened rooms with glory holes, slings, and even baths for yellow worshipers. There was even a chill out room with coffee machine and complimentary peanuts piled high in an old urinal. Being a happily married woman I just had a quick peak gathered my skirts and took to my heels.

San Francisco is a perfect city for exploring and cycling really opens it up. Golden Gate Park is beautiful with its scenic hill road taking you out to Ocean Beach. Cliff house is a great place to have lunch, offering panoramic views but be prepared to wait up to an hour as this is a very popular restaurant. Downstairs there is a vast Victorian penny arcade with the largest collection of machines I have ever seen - loads of fun.

San Francisco

Fuel prices in California are on average seventy five percent less than in the UK so renting a car is a must, also Virgin Atlantic have reduced care hire with Euro dollar. I rented a car for three days and being a queen opted for a convertible at $76 a day but cars can be hired from as little as 26$ a day. Take Highway 1 down to Santa Cruz it is one of the most beautiful coastal roads and offers a variety of interesting little towns to visit. Another great day out is to take your car and head up to the Napa Valley wine country and stop by the Muir Woods to admire the big redwoods.

If you are a food lover like me you'll love San Francisco with its huge variety of restaurants - you really are spoilt but be careful when you order a large steak or you might end up with half of a dead calf in front of you. Delhi sandwiches and malt shakes were my weakness and be prepared to tip a minimum of 20%, anything less is considered rude. Entertainment at its best has to be the famous revue show `Beach Blanket Babylon', you must book for this in advance to avoid disappointment, a really spectacular show. Tram rides are a cheap and fun way to see the city and try, if you can, to climb to the top of Telegraph Hill at night as the view up there is terrific. It is easy to understand why gay men romanticize this city, as it seems to have us all hypnotized with its warmth and charm. It might have taken me fourteen years to get back here but I'm glad I was able to and finish the chapter.

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